Fashion.Art.Books

An archive of my ever expanding book and print collection

Tag: Jean Paul Goude

Visionaire 17 – Gold

In 1996, Visionaire released one of their most creatively adventurous and expensively made issues to date, Gold (sometimes mistakenly called Sun Beams). In this issue a wide variety of techniques were used to convey the theme, including holograms, foil stamping, origami, sculpture, gilding and embossing. The collection of loose leaf works came housed in a box designed by Greg Foley which had a hologram at its centre. Opening the box you were greeted by a gilded halo designed by Todd Oldham and a small booklet entitled Midas Touch which included foil stamped fingerprints of fashion’s most famous (Azzedine Alaia and Linda Evangelista to name just two). Exploring further, there were a collection of gold stars on multiple pages of vellum by Philip Taaffe as well as works by Francois Berthoud, Mats Gustafson, Jean Paul-Goude and Andy Warhol. There was also a gatefold tribute to Goldfinger and a booklet by Lamsweerde and Matadin that featured gold stamping over four-colour prints. The issue was limited to 2,500 copies, which at the time was a significant leap in number for Visionaire. Unsurprisingly this issue is hard to come by and has increased considerably in value!

(Click images to enlarge)

Case

Jean-Paul Goude – Jungle Fever

Jean-Paul Goude recently had a career retrospective exhibition at Les Arts Decoratifs that cemented his reputation as a photographer, illustrator, graphic designer and creative director. He began his career in the 60’s working as an illustrator for Printemps department stores before quickly progressing to become the art director for Esquire magazine in 1970. From here his fame and notoriety for creating groundbreaking imagery grew; he produced some of the most iconic and memorable editorial and commercial images of the 70’s and 80’s, including his unforgettable work with Grace Jones.

In 1983, he published Jungle Fever, a pictorial autobiography of his career to date. In the book, Goude divides his work in to chapters that show a clear progression in his work; sketches, works in progress and mock-ups are shown alongside the finished images to show how the image developed from concept to reality. Accompanying each chapter is an essay that describes the ideas behind the projects and also gives brief insights in to how his personal life and beliefs informed his work. The book clearly documents Goude’s interest in New York’s nightlife and the characters associated with it at a time when disco and clubs such as Studio 54 exploded on to the scene; it also shows Goude’s obsession with the female form and his use of collage and post-production to accentuate or contort his subjects in to impossible poses. The largest section of the book is of course dedicated to his work with Grace Jones, here we see the development of their working and personal relationship and how they created images and stage shows that are still referenced (and often unashamedly appropriated) to this day.

Jungle Fever has since become a seminal book in the fashion and editorial world with many artists and perfomers referencing it as a key inspiration for their work. The book is out of print and highly collectible; I was lucky enough to meet Goude a few years ago and he inscribed my copy.

(click images to enlarge)

Cover

Inscribed

%d bloggers like this: